The Strait of Bonifacio

We started our passage of the Strait of Bonifacio at its west end, which is wide-open sea.  Although the weather was unsettled no major storm was present in the western horizon and the navigation was easy.  Most navigators today use longitude and latitude readings obtained from GPS (Global Positing System).  As all digital instruments may malfunction knowing and using navigation methods that are always available such as information from the magnetic compass and the boat’s speed allows the navigator to know the vessels position albeit not as accurately (dead reckoning). The distance from the west end to the islands in the east varies between 20 and 40 nautical miles depending what one considers as his starting point.  

As our speed over ground was 5-6 knots and we started the crossing in the late afternoon it became apparent that we were going to reach the narrows of the strait where the islands are at night.  Night navigation especially in unfamiliar waters can be dangerous as visibility of the shore and other hazards, optimum at daytime, is limited at night.  Night navigation depends on lighthouse identification, finding Polaris, the North Star and being familiar with visible planets and stars.  In our case the planets Venus, Jupiter and the constellation of Gemini (Castor and Pollux) who were the sons of Leda and Tyndareus, the king of Sparta were in our western horizon for most of our trip.  As we were progressing eastwards the weather deteriorated and we had to deal with a light but continuous drizzle.  We put on our foul weather gear, essential clothing, for those mariners involved in open water passages as it is near impossible to avoid inclement weather.  

Fortunately, we had proper marine maps with us and our GPS was providing trust worthy latitude and longitude readings.  I cannot emphasize how important it is to study the passage on detailed marine maps in advance, record and even memorize the lighthouses which together with depth readings and most important the Lat&Long readings from the GPS makes a night passage safe instead of dealing with a catastrophe such as ending on the rocks.  

When we were at the middle of the strait we encountered several cargo vessels and at its east end at night we came close to a cruise ship, which could be easily recognized as it had a multitude of lights. On the other hand merchant marine ships have few and depend on their navigation lights (green, red and white) for visibility.  Therefore, at night good binoculars and 20/20 eyesight were needed to identify vessels and decide if we looked at their right or left side and if they were steaming towards or away from us.  Although we had a radar reflector common sense dictates that it is better for a small vessel to stay clear of the big boys.  As we advanced towards the east end of the crossing the weather worsened.  A description of our experience with the storm we encountered in the Tyrrhenian Sea will be in the next post to be uploaded in the end of this month.  I thank you my for following our crossing of the Mediterranean and wish the month of October to be good to all.  

Bonifacio and the Land of Laestrygonians

Bonifacio (Corsican:  Gunifaziu) is a beautiful city in the southernmost tip of Corsica.  The city was built on high cliffs that surround a channel that serves as its harbor.  The city has two sections the Old town (Vieux Ville) and the Upper City (Haute Ville) that was built on the site of the citadel a 9^th century fort that overlooks the straits of Bonifacio.   

Bonifacio has all the characteristics of the site where Ulysses had his encounter with the Laestrygonians (Greek: Λαιστρυγόνες).  Homer tells us that Odysseus and his men arrived in a dozen boats at the “rocky stronghold” known as Lamos.  The ships entered the harbor that was surrounded by steep cliffs and had a single entrance.  Odysseus kept his own ship outside the harbor and sent two of his men to make contact with the locals. The men followed a road and met a young woman who was the daughter of Antiphates, the king, and directed them to his house. However, when they got there Antiphates snatched and killed one of the men, and drank his blood.  Antiphates and thousands of Laestrygonians, who were giants, preceded launching vast rocks from the cliffs, smashing eleven of the twelve ships, and speared the men like fish.  

Odysseus made his escape due to the fact that he moored in a cove near the entrance of the harbor.  Odysseus watched in horror, as the rest of his men were lost to the cannibals.