Ancient Messene

The charming village Mavromati is on the slope of Mount Ithome.  Ancient Messene or Messini (Αρχαία Μεσσηνία) is a major archaeological site in Greece. It is the city the Theban general Epaminondas founded in 369 BC.  The mountain village has a nice hotel Messana which among other amenities offers a perfect view of the ancient city, which is so well-preserved that you can easily envision how life in a city was 2,500 years ago.

The geographer Pausanias has left us a description of the ancient city which still lies in a fertile valley.  Ancient Messene has the fortune that was not destroyed or altered by later settlements thus its ruins remain untouched.  When the visitor enters the archaeological site the first structure, he sees is a very well-preserved theatre (Odeon). 

The Agora of Ancient Messene was the site where the inhabitants conducted their transactions including sacrifices of animals for religious or commercial purposes. 

The Asclepeion was the most famous sanctuary of Ancient Messene. The Asclepeion was not used for healing purposes as those in Epidaurus and Kos but along with the Agora was the center of public life. There are more than 140 pedestals of statues of prominent citizens and five platforms that surrounded the Doric temple. 

The Stadium is among the most impressive structures of Ancient Messini. Visitors can still run in the field where athletes competed in antiquity.

The restored Mausoleum is located at the far end of the stadium. The temple like structure according to Pausanias who visited the site (155-160 A.D.) was the funerary tomb, the city honored its chief priest as a hero, and it was in this building members of the Saithidas family were buried.    

The Ancient Museum of Messene is worth visiting as it houses an extensive collection ofartwork and sculptures, thus you will be able to complete the image of Ancient Messene you have visited. Excavations at the site are on going under the direction of archaeologist Petros Themelis who has published a book describing the history, structures, sanctuaries and findings of Ancient Messene in detail. 

Ancient Messene, was surrounded by a protective wall, the total length of which was 9 km. The wall which dates to the 3^rd century B.C. is one of the most important achievements of ancient military architecture and protected the city from all directions, except for the Northeast, where Mount Ithome stood as a natural fortress. The wall had two gates, the Arcadian that led towards Megalopolis and the Laconian which has not survived.  The wall was built by Epaminondas, who defeated the Spartans and liberated the Messenian people who for four centuries were Sparta’s helots.  Strabo compares Ancient Messene that was also known as Ithome to Corinth regarding its strategic importance.

Kimolos and Polyaigos Islands

The island of Kimolos is in close proximity to the larger island Milos and the uninhabited island of Polyaigos.  All three islands belong to the Aegean volcanic ring.  The island derives its name from Kimolos, husband of Side, daughter of Taurus. During the ancient times it was allied with Athens while nearby Milos with Sparta.  This led to conflicts between the two islands because of their desire to possess the nearby islands such as Polyaigos. During the Byzantine and Frankish periods Kimolos was known for the mining and commerce of chalk.  In the years that followed the Franks, Venetians and especially the Pirates caused major reduction of population resulting in financial decline.  The decline reversed in recent years because of tourism.     

The port of Psathi in Kimolos can be reached by ferry from Piraeus or Milos.  Other than the infrequent ferry, local fishermen and their colorful boats use the port.

Three sailors George, John and Nikos entering the port of Kimolos on their laser sailboat.

The small white church is characteristic of the Cycladitic ecclesiastical architecture.

The lighthouse (left) is perched on the top of Pharos bay (right) at the island of Polyaigos.  Polyaigos that means many goats was inhabited mostly by shepherds but also by pirates as needed.  Lovers also seek and attracted to the beauty and solitude of the island.  

The islets near Polyaigos are immersed in the clear blue waters of the Aegean Sea.  As the Aegean is known for its clear blue green color why did Homer repeatedly called her ''wine-dark sea'' in the Iliad and Odyssey?  Is it because the wine Greeks drank was blue, the result of a chemical reaction with alkaline water, as Greeks did not drink their wine neat but always diluted it with water?  Was it because Greeks at the time of Trojan War were colorblind?  Can the word blue be a later addition that did not exist in the early versions of the epics or was it a poetic device Homer and troubadours that followed him used?  I am afraid I will not offer the answer to the enigma but I am willing to attest the sea surrounding Polyaigos is among the most beautiful on this planet.