Aegean Regatta – The return.

The passage from the island of Rhodes to the port of Lavrion was approximately 240 nautical miles.  The course over ground (COG) was much longer as the northerly headwinds (Meltemi) required frequent tacks.  At this point a word of advice to those mariners who intend to sail the Aegean, the Meltemi winds are strong during the middle of the day but ease up in the very early morning and also in the evening. 

The first stop on the way back was the small island of Tilos, which is located 40 nm east of Rhodes.  Our intend was to sail to Kos but because of strong north winds we changed course and headed west.  Interestingly, the gusts tore up our jib, which we sew ourselves when we reached Livadia, the main port of the island. The island's old capital, Mikro Chorio, first settled in the 15th century by the Knights of the Orderof St John, overlooks the bay. It has been completely abandoned by its inhabitants in the 60s. 

The second leg was to Astypalea α 60 nm crossing.  The island was reached after a rough sail against strong north winds 25 knots gusting to 30 with only two able sailors aboard, Nikos and Elias.  "We managed with double reefing the main and with the assist of our 9HP engine that worked nonstop during the 12-hour crossing" Nikos said.  The island of Astypalea was named after the Greek mythological sister of Europa.  The shores of Astypalea are rocky and the island has two sections that are separated by a small 125 meters band.  (map by Giacomo Franco 1597)

On the way to Astypalea we sailed by several islets the largest of which is Syrna.  In Astypalea we met the owner of a general store called Syrna.  She was the last and only resident on Syrna islet. 

The next leg was to the tiny island of Schinoussa, which is located to the south of Naxos.  We first passed by the islets of Pontikoussa and Ofidoussa, which are located to the southwest of Astypalea which although beautiful are dangerous to navigate by especially at night.  

We reached Schinousa after sailing for 55 nm with the two brave souls aboard. The little island captivates those visitors who seek pristine beaches with crystal clear water and a calm place for their vacations. 

Our fourth stop after a 22 nm sail was Naxos the largest of the Cycladitic islands.   Although the shortest of our crossings, it was the most difficult because of strong northerly gusty winds that required many tacks.    

When we reached the port of Naxos, it was full, but thanks to Okyrhoe’s small size we tied next to some larger boats. I will keep Naxos caption brief, as I will dedicate an entire post to this fascinating island.  I will only mention that a freak accident to Elias created a 7 cm cut on his foreleg that required several stitches by the local doctor.   

The final leg of our return trip was from Naxos to Lavrion was an 80 nm sail.  We cast the lines off at 4 am and we were under way northwest bound in calm winds and seas.   The first two hours of our trip were in total darkness and all three of us were captivated by the magnificent night sky. I will not describe all the stars of that night other than say that, Milky Way, our galaxy, is an awe inspiring sight that can be observed easily with the naked eye.  The other interesting sight was a bright star that rose from the east just before dawn.  It was not a star, it was planet Venous.

We also saw the Pleiades known as the 7 sisters. The name Pleiades derives either from their mother’s name Pleione or from the verb πλεῖν (in Greek means “to sail”) because of the cluster's importance in delimiting the sailing season in the Mediterranean Sea.  The Greek poet Hesiod mentions the Pleiades in his Works and Days (618-23) several times:

"And if longing seizes you for sailing the stormy seas,

When the Pleiades flee mighty Orion

And plunge into the misty deep

And all the gusty winds are raging,

Then do not keep your ship on the wine-dark sea

But, as I bid you, remember to work the land." 

Finally, we are at the strait of Lavrion and only a few miles away from its port.  Dear friends and fellow sailors we took Hesiod’s advice and our boat Okyrhoe is now on dry dock for the rest of the winter.  My brother Nikos and his able crew did well in the many races they participated in the 2017 season so they now deserve becoming landlubbers again at least until next spring.  I wish you all a lovely holiday season starting with December 6^th, the feast day of Saint Nicholas, the patron saint of sailors who returns at Christmas Eve as Santa Claus to bring us all presents.