2013-2021; a Travelogue

In the past 7 years, I uploaded 202 posts in my blog Cross Country Chronicles.  As this is the first post of 2021 and maybe the final of this series that started with a trip, I took with my son John, from Orlando to San Francisco to Chicago and on to our starting point Columbus, Ohio.  Also, it included among others the remarkable crossing from Spain to Greece on my brother Nikos 29-foot sailboat Okyrhoe.  The trip from Florida to California and back to Ohio is described in 55 posts in January and February 2014.

The trip from Spain to Greece is described in 23 posts from August 2015 to July 2016.  There are many individuals from my immediate family, and those who love and care about me, to friends I love dearly, to professional associates at places where I lived and worked, and all those who encouraged and inspired me to write.  I want to thank and express my gratitude to all and wish them a good a pleasant trip in their lives.  The pictures in this post are from Porto Rafti, the beautiful little bay, I have made my domicile while in Greece.

                                                                       The three pictures in this post were taken by my brother-in-law Kostas Fotos.

Greek Yogurt

 

Yogurt first appeared during the Neolithic period.  It is probable that the earliest yogurt was made by accident from fermentation of milk in Mesopotamia around 5,000 BC.  Yogurt was well-known food in Ancient Greece and Rome.  The cuisine of Ancient Greeks included a dairy product called Oxygala (Οξυγαλα) which is sour milk.  The Greek physician Galen mentioned that Oxygala was consumed with honey in a similar way Greek yogurt is eaten today.  Yogurt played and still plays a major role in the Mediterranean cuisine today.

Milking a cow painting.  Ancient Egypt c2371-2350 BC. Getty image.

There is folklore linking the consumption of milk to longevity.  In fact people in the Bulgarian village of Momchilovtsi, which is perched on the slopes of Rhodope mountains near the border with Greece claims many centenarians and many locals believe that this is due to large quantities of cultured milk products the they consume.  It was in 1905 the Bulgarian microbiologist Stamen Grigorov at the age of 27 discovered in Geneva the bacterium Lactobacillus Bulgaricus, which ferments milk to yogurt.  A major impetus to yogurt's recent popularity was because in 1904, the Russian scientist Ilya Metchnikov who was working at the Pasteur Institute in Paris published his theory about the health benefits of yogurt for which he received the Nobel Prize in Medicine in 1908.

Ingredients

1.5 liters of pasteurized whole milk, 2 tablespoons of yogurt with active cultures

Preparation

Place the milk in a pot and heat it to 120° F or 50° C.

In a separate cup or bowl, mix two tablespoons of yogurt, that has active cultures with milk until the yogurt is totally dissolved.  Add it to the pot with the heated milk and stir it well.

Pour the milk into a Pyrex glass container or glass jars, cover it and wrap it in a warm towel and place it in the oven.  Turn the oven light on and leave it for 8-10 hours.

Place the glass container in the refrigerator for 6-8 hours and your homemade yogurt will be ready.  To make the Greek variety, strain the yogurt with a cheesecloth to consistency you enjoy.  When you strain the yogurt, you get, liquid whey, a protein rich liquid. If you strain nearly all the liquid from the yogurt, you get a soft Greek cheese called Anthotyro which is very tasty.  In summary from milk you can make home-made yogurt, liquid whey, Kefir and cheese.  Enjoy! 

Mycenae

In the second millennium BC, Mycenae was one of the major centers of Greek civilisation.  It dominated much of southern Greece, the Cycladitic islands, Crete and the western Anatolia.  At its peak in 1350 BC, the Citadel and the lower town had a population of 30,000.

With 3 of my children in front of the famous Lion Gate. 

Francesco Grimani in 1700 identified the ruins of Mycenae based on Pausanias' description.

Mycenae's Acropolis and surrounding countryside.  The German archaeologist Heinrich Schliemann (1822-1890) excavated Mycenae and nearby Tiryns.  Schliemann is considered as the modern discoverer of prehistoric or Bronze Age Greece. 

Grave circle, in the cemetery, inside Mycenae's citadel.

Wild cyclamens growing in the sun-parched fields of Mycenae's palace.

Agamemnon, the king of Mycenae, conducted the 10 year war against Troy, to get beautiful Helen back to his brother Menelaus.  Legend tells us that the long and arduous war divided mortals and gods alike, and contributed to curses and vengeance that followed many of the Greek heroes.  After the war Agamemnon returned to Mycenae and although he was greeted warmly by his subjects, he was slayed by his wife Clytemnestra and her lover Aegistheus.

 The heroes of the Trojan war inspired many writers in antiquity, Homer being the pre-eminent of all, as well as many poets in recent times among whom the American poet Louise Gluck who won the 2020 Nobel price for Literature.  Her emblematic poem on Achilles and her work according to Anders Olsson, Chairman of Nobel Committee,  is "deceptively natural, candid and uncompromising, with no trace of a poetic ornament".

The Triumph of Achilles

In the story of Patroclus

no one survives, not even Achilles

who was near god.

Patroclus resembled him; the wore

the same armor.

Always in these friendships

one serves the other, one less than the other;

the hierarchy

is always apparent, though the legends 

cannot be trusted

their source is the survivor,

the one who has been abandoned.

What were the Greek ships on fire

compared to this loss?

In his tent, Achilles

grieved with his whole being

and the gods saw

he was a man already dead, a victim

of the part that loved,

the part that was mortal.

Achilles tending Patroclus, identified in inscriptions on a vase.  Attic red-figure kylix, ca 500 BC

Sunset

In Greek mythology Hesperides were are nymphs of the evening or the golden light at sunset.  They were called also Atlandides because they were daughters of the titan Atlas.  According to legend the Maidens of the West were tending of the Tree that Dance of the Hesperides around the Golden Tree that was bearing Golden apples.  Hesperides took great pleasure by dancing and singing sweet songs around the tree, (Canvas by Eduard Carvet, 1799-1883)

A happy cow enjoying the green grass of Ireland at sunset (photo by Enya Woods)

View of downtown Columbus, Ohio at sunset after a summer storm (photo by George Spigos)

Chicago also known as windy city or city by the lake at sunset from Adler Planetarium

View of Manhattan skyline and Brooklyn bridge.

Tourists flock at Cape Sounion to visit Poseidon's Temple and to enjoy the sunset at Saronic Gulf. 

Super moon over Poseidon's Temple.  If you can visit the site tomorrow October 2nd you will enjoy the rising beautiful moon between the columns of the Temple that was erected at 440 BC. (photo by T. Matsopoulos) 

Dawn

In Greek mythology Dawn or Eos (Ηως in Greek) is a Goddess that rises each morning from her home the Ocean (Οκεανος).  In the Homeric Hymn to Helios, we are told that Hyperion married  Eryphaesa, and begot tireless Helios (the Sun), rosy Eos (the Dawn) and fair tressed Selene (the Moon).  Dawn appears as many as twenty times in The Odyssey, and the poem repeats similar descriptions of her such as “But when early-born rosy-fingered Dawn appeared…”  Book Eight first lines read When young Dawn with her red-rose fingers shone once more, the royal Alcinous, hallowed island king, rose from bed and great Odysseus, raider of cities, rose too. A There are many similar expressions in Homeric verse, which suggest that different things will happen every day, but Dawn always appears early and always with her rosy fingers.

The Greek Goddess Eos in her Chariot ready for another day of travel.  Edifice found in Herculaneum

Sunrise in our little paradise on earth Porto Rafti: the Homeric expression “when newborn Dawn appeared with rosy fingers…” describes our feelings when we see Eos. At dawn the hue of the sea becomes pink.  The waves become placid and their phosphoresce reflects shades of a red carnation. Όλος ο γιαλός ροδίζει γύρω. Τα κύματα φρικιούν ήρεμα, και το φωσφόρισμά των ανταυγάζει αποχρώσεις ερυθρού γαροφάλλου..." Παπαδιαμαντης

Sunrise in Ukraine; the Homeric expression “when the early Dawn was born; her fingers bloomed” is most appropriate.

The golden throne of Dawn was riding up the sky… and brought a beautiful day… in frozen Lake Baikal.

Aurora, ceiling fresco by Guido Reni (1613) Picture from Encyclopedia Brittanica

Ancient Messene

The charming village Mavromati is on the slope of Mount Ithome.  Ancient Messene or Messini (Αρχαία Μεσσηνία) is a major archaeological site in Greece. It is the city the Theban general Epaminondas founded in 369 BC.  The mountain village has a nice hotel Messana which among other amenities offers a perfect view of the ancient city, which is so well-preserved that you can easily envision how life in a city was 2,500 years ago.

The geographer Pausanias has left us a description of the ancient city which still lies in a fertile valley.  Ancient Messene has the fortune that was not destroyed or altered by later settlements thus its ruins remain untouched.  When the visitor enters the archaeological site the first structure, he sees is a very well-preserved theatre (Odeon). 

The Agora of Ancient Messene was the site where the inhabitants conducted their transactions including sacrifices of animals for religious or commercial purposes. 

The Asclepeion was the most famous sanctuary of Ancient Messene. The Asclepeion was not used for healing purposes as those in Epidaurus and Kos but along with the Agora was the center of public life. There are more than 140 pedestals of statues of prominent citizens and five platforms that surrounded the Doric temple. 

The Stadium is among the most impressive structures of Ancient Messini. Visitors can still run in the field where athletes competed in antiquity.

The restored Mausoleum is located at the far end of the stadium. The temple like structure according to Pausanias who visited the site (155-160 A.D.) was the funerary tomb, the city honored its chief priest as a hero, and it was in this building members of the Saithidas family were buried.    

The Ancient Museum of Messene is worth visiting as it houses an extensive collection ofartwork and sculptures, thus you will be able to complete the image of Ancient Messene you have visited. Excavations at the site are on going under the direction of archaeologist Petros Themelis who has published a book describing the history, structures, sanctuaries and findings of Ancient Messene in detail. 

Ancient Messene, was surrounded by a protective wall, the total length of which was 9 km. The wall which dates to the 3^rd century B.C. is one of the most important achievements of ancient military architecture and protected the city from all directions, except for the Northeast, where Mount Ithome stood as a natural fortress. The wall had two gates, the Arcadian that led towards Megalopolis and the Laconian which has not survived.  The wall was built by Epaminondas, who defeated the Spartans and liberated the Messenian people who for four centuries were Sparta’s helots.  Strabo compares Ancient Messene that was also known as Ithome to Corinth regarding its strategic importance.

Covid-19 Pandemic; observations thus far.

There have been more than 10 million cases and more than 500,000 deaths worldwide due to Covid-19 as of today. It is nearly impossible from the new cases and death numbers that are presented even by respectable sites for someone to reach a conclusion on how Covid-19 pandemic compares those in the past.  The cultural differences among people and the enormous variation of lockdowns, from very strict to light to mini make comparisons very difficult.  The examples below provide us with information on how four distinct populations fared due to their unique characteristics.

On the cruise vessel Diamond Princess 3,618 tests were performed on 3,711 people (2,666 passengers and 1,045 crew).  712 of the tests or 19% were positive. Half of those tested had symptoms while half were asymptomatic. There were 14 deaths.  The death rate of the entire cohort (crew + passengers) was 0.37% while the death rate among those who tested positive, who were likely elderly, it was 2%.  In a brief report has been published in the Journal of Emerging Infectious Diseases, the interested reader, can find epidemiological information regarding Covid-19 in a group of people who were isolated in close proximity within the confines of a vessel. The passengers and crew were quarantined in Yokohama, Japan and the lockdown was total. 

In the State of Ohio 787,929 tests were performed, of which 52,419 or 6.7% of which were positive. There were 2,890 deaths.  The death rate for the 10 million inhabitants is 0.03%.  The death rate is 6% among those who tested positive.  Ohio enacted what I consider a light lockdown.

In Greece a total of 308,392 tests were performed of which 3,409 or 1.11% were positive.  There were 192 deaths.  The death rate from Covid-19 among the 10 million inhabitants is 0.002%.  The death rate is 6% among those who tested positive.  Greece enacted a strict lockdown. 

In Sweden a total of 444,600 tests were performed and 68,451 or 15 % were positive.  There were 5,333 deaths.  The death rate from Covid-19 among the 10 million inhabitants is 0.05% while it is 8% among those who tested positive.  Sweden enacted a mini lockdown allowing its inhabitants to continue their lives as in the past forbidding only gatherings of more than 50 people.

The cultural differences among people and the enormous variation of lockdowns from very strict to light to minimal make comparisons near impossible.  Also, the way different societies care of their elders and those at risk varies not only between countries but also between big cities and small villages within the same country.  The three above mentioned countries have near identical populations (10 million) but fewer than 10,000 elderly are housed in nursing homes in Greece a country in which the elderly are cared at home.  Approximately 30,000 elderly are in nursing homes in Sweden to more than 100,000 in Ohio.  Also, the number of people incarcerated differs as well, from approximately 6,000 in Sweden to 10,000 in Greece to 50,000 in Ohio.  Finally, risk factors such as smoking is more prevalent in Greece while obesity is more prevalent in Ohio. 

In the past 6 months we have learned that certain practices such as social distancing, avoidance of crowded places and wearing masks, the practice of respiratory etiquette and other hygienic practices such as washing hands are effective.  Intense early testing and contact tracing in the early phase of the epidemic have been employed successfully by several Asian countries such as Singapore, S. Korea and Taiwan.   We also learned that strict infection control measures at hospitals, nursing homes, meat processing facilities, prisons and cruise ships are necessary. 

We now know that locking down entire countries adversely impacts economies.  McKinsey's researchers estimate that government deficits could reach $30 trillion by 2023.  Stanford University's epidemiologist John Ioannidis believes that the infection fatality rate (IFR) of Covid-19 can vary from less than that of Influenza to ten times more.  It all depends on case mix, how patients are treated and what age group is infected.  It is known that almost 80% of the deaths are individuals over the age of 80 or those with poor health due to risk factors.  Since several countries  such as Taiwan, Singapore, S. Korea and Japan have dealt successfully with the viral epidemic, hopefully the rest of the countries can decrease their fatality rate if a second or more waves take place. (In the picture the US daily fatality rate as depicted in a NYT article)